Dermatologist visits for hyperpigmentation account for 8.5% of all consultations. Dark patches can appear on your skin from sun damage, acne scars, and hormone changes. Several professional chemical peel options might help patients who want to treat their melasma and other hyperpigmentation issues.
Dermatologists frequently recommend two powerful treatments: the Cosmelan peel and the VI peel. Both treatments deliver results, but your skin’s specific needs and condition will determine the best option, even if that means going for a different treatment altogether.
This piece examines various chemical peels, their key ingredients, and the details of their treatment process. You’ll learn about crucial factors that help determine the right peel treatment for your pigmentation concerns.
Understanding Different Types of Hyperpigmentation
Hyperpigmentation affects everyone differently based on what causes it, how it looks, and how it responds to treatment. You need to know exactly what type of hyperpigmentation you have before trying treatments like chemical peels for melasma so that you can manage it properly.
What is Hyperpigmentation?
The term hyperpigmentation covers many conditions where skin patches turn darker than the surrounding area. It occurs because your skin makes too much melanin, the pigment that gives skin its color. These dark patches won’t always harm your health but can affect your confidence.
Melasma: Hormonal and Sun-Triggered Discoloration
Melasma stands out from other types of hyperpigmentation because hormones trigger it, and it has a unique look. Dark patches with clear borders appear on your face—usually on the forehead, temples, cheeks, upper lip, and nose.
Several things can cause melasma:
- Hormonal influences: Birth control pills, hormone therapy, and pregnancy can start melasma. The patches might fade naturally after pregnancy or stopping hormone medications.
- Genetic predisposition: Melasma runs in families. A global study of 324 melasma patients found 48% had relatives with the same condition.
- Skin tone: People with medium to darker skin face higher risks, especially those with Latin, Asian, Black, or Native American backgrounds. Darker skin tones tend to keep melasma longer.
- Sun exposure: The sun makes worsens melasma. Even light from screens and devices can trigger it.
Post-Inflammatory Hyperpigmentation: After Acne or Injury
Post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation (PIH) happens when your skin makes extra melanin while healing from damage. Unlike melasma’s hormone triggers, PIH comes directly from skin injury.
PIH can start from:
- Acne or blemishes (even tiny ones)
- Eczema and dermatitis
- Cuts, burns, and wounds
- Rashes or skin infections
- Some beauty treatments like lasers, peels, and dermabrasion
- Strong skincare products or too much exfoliation
PIH shows up exactly where the injury happened. The color can be white, pink, red, purple, brown, or black, depending on your skin tone and how deep the pigment goes.
More inflammation means darker and bigger PIH spots. Picking at pimples makes PIH much more likely because it causes more inflammation.
PIH works in two ways:
- Epidermal PIH: Melanin builds up in top skin layers, looking brown. This type usually gets better faster.
- Dermal PIH: Bad inflammation lets melanin leak deeper into skin where special cells trap it, creating blue-gray spots that take longer to fade.
Anyone can get PIH, but it hits people with medium to dark skin harder. Up to 65% of darker-skinned people with acne develop PIH. This happens because darker skin has more melanin and reacts more strongly to inflammation.
Left alone, PIH usually fades as your body processes extra melanin. This can take three months to two years, and some spots might stay forever. Darker skin typically takes longer to clear.
Comparing Chemical Peels for Hyperpigmentation Treatment
Chemical peels come in many forms to treat hyperpigmentation. Each peel contains specific ingredients that target different aspects of pigmentation disorders. The right peel choice depends on how it affects melanin production and skin cell turnover.
Cosmelan Peel
The Cosmelan peel treatment system works right away and continues working over time to address pigmentation at its root. Many practitioners choose it to treat stubborn melasma cases.
Cosmelan uses a special mix of depigmenting agents, comprised of ingredients that target different aspects of melanin production. It blocks the key enzyme that creates melanin, stopping the pigmentation process at its source. The treatment essentially puts melanin production on hold for a long time. New spots can’t form even after the visible peeling stops.
This peel does more than just remove surface pigmentation. It fixes the mechanisms that cause overproduction. Regular peels just remove surface discoloration, but Cosmelan tackles why it happens.
VI Peel
The VI peel is versatile enough to help with many types of skin issues, and it’s often the treatment of choice for PIH. It works by speeding up skin cell turnover and reducing pigment buildup. Results depend on how deep the color goes.
The ingredients in a VI peel come together to create a chemical that exfoliates the surface of the skin, getting rid of toxins and dead or damaged skin cells while uncovering a fresher layer of skin underneath. This stimulates collagen production to heal the skin and restore its normal color.
Since VI peels tend to be less invasive than other chemical peels, they require little to no downtime.
The Chemical Peel Process from Preparation to Recovery
A chemical peel’s treatment and recovery process could be a factor in whether you decide to use it.
What to Expect During the Cosmelan Peeling Process
The Cosmelan peel is different from traditional chemical peels because it uses a two-phase protocol. The first phase happens in-office, and you continue the second phase at home.
Your in-office treatment includes:
- A thorough skin cleansing [10].
- Application of Cosmelan 1 mask, which feels like peanut butter.
- Getting an after-treatment kit with home removal instructions.
You’ll leave with the mask on your face. The mask needs to stay on for 8 to 12 hours, based on your skin type and practitioner’s advice.
Later, you’ll remove the mask at home using a gentle cleanser and lukewarm water until it’s completely gone. Your skin might feel sensitive and tight, with some redness lasting 24 to 48 hours.
The treatment continues at home with:
- Day 2: Recovery cream followed by sun protection
- Month 1: Cosmelan 2 cream (starting days three to seven, depending on sensitivity) twice daily, plus recovery cream and sun protection
- Months 2-6: Cosmelan 2 (less often over time)
Your skin might itch, burn, feel dry, tight, and peel while adjusting to the treatment. Most people see improvements after a week, with better results over the next three to four weeks.
What to Expect During the VI Peeling Process
Compared to Cosmelan, the VI peeling process is a little more straightforward. Your practitioner will:
- Thoroughly cleanse the skin of your treatment area.
- Apply the VI chemical solution to the treatment area with an applicator, brush, or gauze. Several layers of solution may be necessary.
After four to six hours, you can wash the peel off the treatment area with a gentle cleanser. There should be no issue returning to your regular activities right away.
Your skin will begin peeling roughly two to three days later and will continue for five to seven days. You must avoid picking or pulling at the skin to get the best results.
Let the Beauty Vault in West Hollywood Help You Pick a Hyperpigmentation Treatment
Your skin is incredibly important for your health and sense of self. You deserve the feel completely comfortable with it. Go to the Beauty Vault in West Hollywood to ask their highly experienced team what hyperpigmentation process makes the most sense for you. Reach out today by calling (323) 800-6770 or filling out a contact form.
FAQs
Q1. What are the main differences between Cosmelan and VI Peel treatments? Cosmelan is specifically designed to target pigmentation issues, particularly melasma, by regulating melanin production. VI Peel, on the other hand, addresses a broader range of skin concerns, including hyperpigmentation, fine lines, and acne scars. Cosmelan involves a two-phase treatment with an in-office mask application followed by at-home maintenance, while VI Peel is typically a single in-office procedure with a shorter recovery time.
Q2. Which chemical peel is most effective for treating hyperpigmentation? The most effective chemical peel for hyperpigmentation depends on the specific type and severity of the condition. Glycolic acid peels are often recommended for mild to moderate hyperpigmentation due to their gentle yet effective exfoliating properties. For more stubborn cases, deeper peels like TCA or Cosmelan may be more appropriate. It’s best to consult with a skincare professional to determine the most suitable option for your individual case.
Q3. Are chemical peels safe for all skin types when treating hyperpigmentation? While chemical peels can be effective for various skin types, caution is necessary, especially for individuals with darker skin tones who may be more prone to post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation. Professional assessment is crucial to determine the appropriate peel strength and type for your skin. Some peels, like the VI Peel, are formulated to be safe for most skin types, but it’s always best to consult with a skincare professional before undergoing any treatment.
Q5. What kind of aftercare is required following a chemical peel for hyperpigmentation? Post-peel care is critical for optimal results and to prevent complications. Key aftercare steps include:
- Gentle cleansing with mild, soap-free cleansers
- Regular application of recommended moisturizers
- Avoiding picking or peeling the skin
- Refraining from exfoliation until the skin has fully healed
- Strict sun protection, including daily use of broad-spectrum SPF 30+ sunscreen and avoiding direct sun exposure
